Shenandoah National Park stretches along the Blue Ridge Mountains in Virginia. The park’s main road, Skyline Drive, stretches through the park with 105 scenic miles and a three hour journey though it. Most travelers base themselves in towns like Front Royal, Luray, Sperryville, or Waynesboro. However, we decided to stay in McGaheysville, being closer to the south end of the park. It ended up being the location we needed for our planned hikes and activities.
For this trip, our transportation was our car. We drove down from New Jersey, and having a car in this area is essential for the things we planned.
🗓️ Itinerary: 4 Days, 2 Days of Travel, 2 Full Days.
Click Arrow for Day to Day Itinerary:
Day 1: Drive NJ to VA. Luray Caverns, Thorton River Orchard, Sunset at Spitler Knoll Overlook
Day 2: Old Rag, Thorton River Orchard Stall, Pen Druid Brewery and Sumac, Copper Fox Distillery
Day 3: Upper Hawksbill Hike, Harry F. Byrd, Sr. Visitor Center, Grand Caverns Spelunking, Cave Hill Farms Brewery
Day 4: Sunrise BearFence Rock Scramble, Drive Home
Things to Do:
I wanted to visit the orchard itself, but timing for sunset meant we couldn’t make it. This gets a shoutout because by total chance, the farm stand next to Old Rag’s trailhead ended up being from Thornton River Orchard. We got delicious treats and jam to take home. On our next trip we plan on visiting the family owned business to make sure we stock up on what they offer: jams, jellies, salsa, pickles, beets, local honey, and more!
🍺 Pen Druid Brewery and 🔥 Sumac:
On Old Rag, we kept bumping into the same family local to the area. So naturally we had to ask them what recommendations they had. They pointed us towards PenDruid and Sumac.
Pen Druid serves beer, cider, wine, while Sumac serves meals over a wood fire with ingredients sourced within 150 miles. Their menu changes weekly. Sumac’s menu changes each week with fresh flavors. We enjoyed: bruleed acorn squash – apple cider, oat crisps, and hickory syrup.
After our 6 hour hike, I was convinced that any cold drink would taste amazing, but Pen Druid turned out to be the best ending to our day. The property itself is beautiful and vast. By the time night settled in, we were completely content, sipping our drinks, and soaking in the atmosphere.
A local recommendation, and it looked so up our alley. Unfortunately, it was closed for a private member night when we arrived. We will be adding it to our “next time” list.
This was another brewery that impressed us with their beers and atmosphere. The farm has been home to many different crops, livestock, pumpkin patch, stables, bed and breakfast, and now to the brewery. The tasting room is in their loafing shed with high walls/ceilings, food truck, and a loft. The main ingredients to their beer are grown on site and water is pulled from the family well. We sat up in the loft sipping our beers and tapping our toes as the live cover band was playing.
Sunrise/Sunset:
🌅 Sunrise: BearFence Rock Scramble
Unfortunately the day we picked for the sunrise it was overcast and when we did get the view of the sun in between the clouds it was 45 minutes past sunrise. The sun was in sight for a minute or two and went back behind the clouds. Despite the poor weather, I would want to try this spot again to catch the sunrise over the mountains.
Since we hadn’t hike Bearfence before we parked ourselves on rocks that were not the true summit. It was a nice flat rock to sit on, but the view was still within the trees. After we had more daylight I hiked a bit further and found the true summit, above the trees. This would have been the spot for the sunrise, but we were lucky since it was overcast I didn’t feel like I missed anything.
🌄 Sunset: Spitler Knoll Overlook
We found this spot by realizing our plan for another spot wasn’t good for the sunset. We thankfully were very observant and noticed people on the side with the same plan we had. So we went with the crowd and set up a blanket, bundled up, and enjoyed the view.
⛰️ Hiking:
🥾Old Rag: Distance: 9 miles. Total Time: 6 hours (10:30am–4:30pm) Make sure to GPS to Ranger Station and not the summit of the mountain.
Old Rag was easily the toughest and most rewarding hike we’ve done together. We’re not expert hikers by any means, but thanks to our climbing experience and general outdoor comfort, the challenge felt big yet totally enjoyable.
Since it was early November, the trail was not crowded, making our time far faster than the suggested 8–10 hours. In peak season, hikers told us there can be lines at the rock scramble. Though, it was off peak, the parking lot was full by 10:30am, as we had to park in the overflow lot.
If you’ve never heard the term “false summit,” Old Rag will teach you quickly. I thought we were at the top, if not close, multiples times but each time it was a lie. The rock scramble makes it hard to judge your progress, but in case you need reassurance, there is a sign at the actual summit.
The views were absolutely worth every effort, and by the end of the day I felt genuinely proud to have tackled this trail. It’s not for the faint of heart, but with determination it’s entirely doable.
🌲 Upper Hawksbill Trailhead: Distance: 2.1 miles Time: 1 hr 15 min
This was a very popular trail because of it’s short distance, easy trail, and being family/pet friendly. Upper Hawksbill has the tallest peak in the park. At the top there is an observational platform for you to enjoy the 360° views of the park.
Harry F. Byrd, Sr. Visitor Center:
We visited during the government shutdown, so I wasn’t sure whether the visitor center would even be open, but I’m so glad it was. Inside, they have a wonderfully detailed exhibit on the history of Shenandoah National Park. I also picked up this super cute national parks book journal and I can’t wait to fill it out.
🪨Caverns: Luray and Grand
🔦 Lurary Caverns: $36 for adults self guided tour
We’d visited caverns before, but nothing compares to what Luray has to offer. As the largest cavern system in the eastern United States, Luray feels like stepping inside another planet. I’m also glad we did this before going spelunking later in the trip; it gave us so much more appreciation for the stalactites and stalagmites.
The tour is fully self-guided and takes about an hour if you move quickly, but I’d recommend allowing 1.5–2 hours. We spent around an hour and a half wandering, taking photos, reading the pamphlet in each room, and just soaking in the views. We could have stayed longer, but we had a sunset to catch.
The pamphlet you receive coordinations numbered stops to different rooms along the path. The route is about 1.25 miles long and leads through massive caverns with ceilings that soar stories high. One of the highlights is the Great Stalacpipe Organ, the largest musical instrument in the world. It was invented by mathematician and electronics engineer Leland W. Sprinkle. The organ uses electronically-triggered, rubber-tipped mallets to gently tap selected stalactites, each tuned to specific notes. The result? A natural symphony created entirely by the caverns themselves.
Your ticket also includes admission to Toy Town Junction, Shenandoah Heritage Village, and the Car and Carriage Caravan Museum.
We didn’t have time to fully explore Shenandoah Heritage Village a seven-acre recreation of a historic farming community. It features restored buildings, cottage-style gardens, a museum, and even a small vineyard framed by beautiful mountain views.
We did make it through the Car and Carriage Caravan Museum, which turned out to be a hidden gem. It houses over 150 historic transportation artifacts dating back to the 1760s. One standout is an 1898 Benz, one of the oldest operating cars in the country. An employee mentioned they’re expanding the museum to make room for even more vehicles, and impressively, all but two of the cars are still in working condition.
🦇 Grand Caverns: Spelunking $65-120
Grand Caverns is a National Natural Landmark and the oldest continually operating show cave in the United States. They offer daily 70-minute walking tours for families (ages 3+), but what really caught our attention were their spelunking adventures:
- Rock Bottom — 2 hours
- The Grottoes Crawl — 3 hours
- The Gauntlet — 3–4 hours (the hardest)
Since we had never been spelunking before, I was honestly nervous about signing up for The Gauntlet. I didn’t know how I would handle tight squeezes or long crawls. We opted for the Rock Bottom tour, hoping it was the better fit. After completing our tour, I can say with full confidence: next time, we’re booking The Gauntlet! They do require a small “readiness test” in the main building before you attempt it, just to make sure you’ll be safe underground.
At first, I felt those beginner jitters, but the experience quickly shifted into pure awe. It felt like a behind-the-scenes, VIP version of Luray. This tour was messy, hands-on, and incredibly intimate as we crawled, slid, and squeezed our way through narrows passages. We got to explore the chambers up close and personal.
There were a few moments during the tour when we crossed paths with the regular walking groups. I have to admit that we felt pretty special in our helmets, headlamps, and full spelunking gear. It was like we were part of some secret expedition. Crawling under railings and slipping into blocked-off passages not meant for the walking tour made the whole experience feel even more “behind the scenes,” like we were exploring parts of the cave reserved just for us.
Helpful knowledge I would like to pass on when getting ready for you tour. They do have a basket to put your keys, cellphone, watches, and jewelry in so it doesn’t get damaged or lost during the tour. They offer overalls to go over your clothes if you wish to put them on. The tours are small 8-12 people and two tour guides go with you.
One feature I do hope they add someday would be a video package! Even if it’s something like adding a GoPro mount to the helmets and you bring your own GoPro. I would have loved getting footage of the experience from my perspective.
💭 Final Thoughts
Shenandoah was a wonderful trip. I understand the allure and beauty people find in it. We went during November, post peak foliage, and that’s the way we love to travel. Why? Because it is less crowded, we can find parking, enjoy the atmosphere without people; it’s just much more peaceful. Would I go back? Absolutely. If you didn’t notice a theme while I was writing about the next time I would do this, it’s because I would love to come back. I would want to venture back during warmer weathers, to hike Dark Hollows, see the waterfalls, find natural water slides, and swimming holes.
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